Raz Marine Pumps
Div. Pro-Cav Specialists, Inc.
Since 1983
Aftermarket Headquarters for
Galley Maid® Head Pumps and Water Pumps
Remanufactured "Better than original" Exchange
Spare and replacement parts for all models and voltages

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Trouble Shooting


Toilet (marine head) Problems Water Pressure Accumulator Problems
Procedure: Locking Pump For Rotor Removal Water Pressure Pumps: Failure to build pressure
Seal Leaking/Failure  


"GH" Toilet pumps

In general, these units (small pump on one end, large pump on the other) furnish water to the bowl at 7 GPM and evacuate the waste at 10 GPM. This means the big pump is sucking air part of the time. It also makes that pump highly aggressive when it is pumping liquid.

All this waste and air needs some place to go, so if there is a restriction somewhere downstream of the pump, it will all slow down and compress, giving symptoms of intermittent evacuation and 'bubbling-back'. Restrictions can be hard objects that pass through the pump, accumulation of calcium deposits, or even blockage of holding tank vents.

The above also applies to "HTS" type pumps (big end only) which use valved fresh water for bowl supply.

Distance from bowl to pump, type and number of PVC fittings used, and relative level of pump and bowl also contribute to overall performance.

These pumps are essentially 'positive-displacement', so if the discharge is blocked, it can virtually lock up the pump.

TROUBLE SHOOTING--GENERAL


SYMPTOM CAUSE REMEDY
1. Pump does not operate
   (Solenoid clicking?)
Pump failure, bad
solenoid or control switch
Check further
2. No incoming water Lost prime Re-prime pump
  Dirty check valve Replace/clear check valve
  Worn out stator (SL-7) Replace Stator
  Blockage at bowl rim Clear all holes with
coat hanger
3. Bowl doesn’t evacuate Worn out stator/rotor (150) Replace stator/rotor
  Debris in waste intake Slide pump out of
hose and inspect for
obstruction
  Problem in boat plumbing Check discharge hose and
fitting for restrictions
(See Below)
  Holding tank vent blocked Clear vent fitting
4. Pump struggling & trips
breaker
Blockage in discharge line Clean or replace line
See "Pump Isolation Test" below
5. Toilet bowl bubbles Worn out pump Replace stator/rotor
  Discharge restrictions See below
  Air Vent in vented loop Clean fittings or clogged
Replace hoses


SPECIFIC SOLUTIONS
Bowl fills but does not pump out right:

1. Re-prime waste end:

Fill bowl to below rim with bucket or other source

Go to pump location and gently loosen pipe plug (“PRIMING”) on waste end of pump

Allow any trapped air to escape then re-tighten.

Return to bathroom and press flush switch.

If bowl does not empty normally in repeated tests, return to pump location

2. Pump Isolation Test:

Remove 1” discharge hose from top of pump

Obtain a short piece of this hose material long enough to reach a bucket or the bilge.

Install the short hose then give a flush command to unit.

If it flushes normally in repeated tests, problem is a blockage or restriction in plumbing somewhere in the boat

If it still does not pump correctly there is a fault in the pump

Next loosen and remove large waste hose from pump. Breaking the pump free from the hose can be difficult. Use thin screwdrivers to start the hose separation and shoot a little WD-40 in the crack. It may be necessary to demount the pump (four 1/4-20 nuts) and pull pump out of the hose, sometimes with a twisting motion to break that last 30%. There is usually lots of slack in smaller hoses and electrical cables.

Look into the big hole for foreign material possibly wrapped around the T-cutter or rotor. It could be disposable cleaning rags, dental floss or any fibrous material.

Occasionally, on older installations, you can find thick calcium deposits inside the pump nose and the large hose from the toilet. These deposits can be shockingly thick, sometimes over 75% of the nominal opening. In such cases the pump nose and incoming hose must be carefully cleaned. Discharge hoses and fittings would also be suspect.

If no foreign material is visible, problem is likely wear or deterioration of rubber stator or less commonly the brass rotor. Stator should fit snugly on the rotor. In this case, see the procedure for rotor/stator/seal replacement. A New Stator or Other Parts may be required, based on inspection of parts on further disassembly.

If you have a chronic problem during boat operations, check on the back of the toilet bowl where water enters for flushing. You should find a clear 3/8” hose leading from the source elbow to the big white PVC bend. The fittings can get blocked over time and must be clear to pass extra priming water to the pump inlet. If you don’t see it, you should install one. We sell these assemblies.

Bowl does not fill:

Assure a source of water to the pump inlet. If vessel has been out of the water, air could have gotten into the system, preventing the small pump from working.

First remove the intake hose from the pump and fill it with water, elevating the end as much as possible to release the maximum amount of air, then reconnect and prime as usual, then test.

Another possible problem is a stuck check valve in the source (or even a blocked sea cock). There should be a check valve near the sea cock. The quickest test for it is to suck on the sea water hose. That not only tests the check valve but often breaks it loose if stuck. Also a tap on the valve body with a hammer can help. Sea water is not harmful to your health.




Procedure: Locking Pump For Rotor Removal on 24 and 32 Volt pumps

(Tools: 1/8” Pocket Screwdriver, normal wrenches)

When pump nose is removed and you are ready to unscrew the rotor…

Remove one of two short ¼-20 hex bolts that secure solenoid to pump case

Insert the small screwdriver into the threaded hole to contact the motor armature

Apply moderate pressure to lock armature while unscrewing rotor. This contact is harmless to the motor armature.

Note that on toilet pumps it may not be necessary to lock motor while reinstalling the rotor




Seal Leaking/Failure

Seal failure is very rare. There are 4 causes:
  1. Incorrect original installation or inferior seal quality.
  2. Hair or certain fibrous material wrapped around the seal, forcing the two sections apart.
    (Can be cured by partial disassembly and cleaning.)
  3. 'Pocket corrosion' or severe pitting of the stainless shaft over long service.
  4. Spring failure due to poor quality or long service with corrosive chemicals added to the flush process.




WATER PRESSURE PUMPS


Symptom: failure to build pressure (motor OK)

First remove the intake hose from the pump and fill it with water, elevating the end as much as possible to release the maximum amount of air, then reconnect and prime as usual, then test.

Always start the pump the first time against zero pressure.

If pump still won't build pressure, remove nose housing and inspect. Break rubber stator loose. It should be a snug fit over the brass rotor and free of internal roughness or damage from dry running.

In event of dry running damage remove old stator and clean out debris. Brass rotor will clean up with a wire brush and lacquer thinner. Reassemble with a bit of silicone grease rubbed into stator interior and rotor surface.

Center MR-7 Stator flange among the 4 bolts. Then reinstall the nose, tightening the bolts uniformly to "screwdriver" tightness.

If MR-10, assure that stator flange is pressed in the groove in the pump base, then reinstall the nose housing with the 6 machine screws, uniformly. Go around the housing serveral times.

Water Pressure Accumulator Problems

Symptom: short-cycling of pump

Assure that pre-charge pressure is correct

  1. Turn off power to pump.
  2. Release pressure from water system by opening a tap or hose bib.
  3. Locate ‘Schrader’ valve fitting on the opposite end of the tank from pipe fittings.
  4. Remove cap and measure pressure with standard tire gauge.
  5. Pressure should be about 15 PSI.
  6. If too low, add air with hand pump or compressed air source.
  7. Turn pump power on and run water to test performance.
If problem recurs in days or weeks, the diaphragm inside the tank is ruptured. In this situation the tank must be replaced. We sell these Accumulator Tanks.

Special Problems on old Hatteras Yachts

Air ingestion and resulting stator/pump damage due to chronic dry running.

Hatteras typically used a 'dip tube' to draw water (or fuel) from the tank. They never had a tank drain at the bottom.

They usually used a brass tube for this, but after many years, corrosion from moisture or introduction of bleach into the tank will attack and perforate the dip tube. This allows air to be drawn into the pump destroying the stator, and after many hours, the motor.

In this situation, the dip tube must be withdrawn from the tank and repaired or replaced.

If none of the above helps, CALL US!!!

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Raz Marine Fort Lauderdale Florida
Div. Pro-Cav Specialists, Inc.
281 SW 33rd Street
Fort Lauderdale, FL 33315
Tel: 954-525-5513
Fax: 954-525-6415
Toll Free: 800-824-1186

mail@razmarinepumps.com